etrailer | Trailer Hitch Installation - 2014 Audi Q5 - Curt
53.7 هزار بار بازدید -
10 سال پیش
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Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t...
Today on our 2014 Audi Q5, we're going to be installing the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C13136. Now, here's what our hitch looks like installed on our vehicle. Now, we'll go ahead and give you a couple measurements in helping you choose some accessories for your hitch, such as a ball mount, a bicycle rack, or a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is approximately 6 inches. From the top of the opening and the receiver to the ground is approximately 12 inches. Now, let's go ahead and install our hitch. We're going to go ahead and begin here. We're going to remove this center door section before we begin our installation.
To do that, you simply turn each of tabs here 90 degrees. Go ahead and set that out of the way. Next, we're going to need to remove four T20 Torx head screws. There is two at the middle, and then there is also one up in each wheel well. There's one here and then there's one in the same location over on the other side.
We'll go ahead and remove these four Torx head screws. Next, we're going to need to remove the snap tab. There's one each side that helps hold this bracing in place. We'll just simply push it forward. We'll pull it out like that. Go ahead and repeat same process over on the other side.
Now that we have the four screws and the two bracing tabs removed, before we can actually pull the lower fascia part off of the vehicle, you'll notice that there is four backup sensors here and we'll have to unplug them from the backside or as we're pulling it off since they're connected by wires. In order to remove each of the wiring connections from the sensor tab, we'll have to push in on its locking tab and gently pull outward. Now that we have our four sensors unplugged, now we're ready to pull out, and you'll notice that there is little plastic tabs or snaps that hold it in place. You may need to put your finger behind it and gently push down to work it out initially and then you'll just gently work along the whole lower fascia one side to the other removing the little snaps or the plastic clips. Once you get the first one started, just work your hand in along the backside and gently pull outward, and it'll continue to release the snaps. We can go ahead and set this lower fascia aside for now. Next, we're going to go ahead and put a safety strap in place to help support the exhaust once we remove the hangers from them.
We're going to go ahead and hook our safety strap up. Go ahead and pull it tight. Now with our safety strap in place, we're going to remove two bolts from each side that attach the exhaust hanger to the vehicle's frame. Next, we're going to need to cut out two of these three rubber plugs. We'll be cutting out the two that are farthest forward, so these two right here is what we'll be trimming out. Just going to take a razor knife, go around the edge. Go ahead and pull that out. Then, we'll repeat the same process over on the other side. Next, we're going to go ahead and install our 1/2 inch carriage bolt and our square hole spacer block into this hole and this hole here. We have our carriage bolt and our spacer block in. We'll slide it in like that. We can go ahead and twist it around so that it's like that. We're going to go ahead and take our gasket maker here. We're going to put a good seal all the way around. We're going to be using Loctite RTV 598 silicone gasket maker, part number LT37467. Go ahead and repeat that same process for the other hole. Now that we have our carriage bolts, our spacer blocks, and our silicone sealant around each hole, go ahead and get an extra set of hands to help us raise the hitch up into position and then we'll loosely install each of the flange nuts just to support the hitch. Now before we raise our hitch up into position here, we're going to go ahead and install each of the U-bolts. We found it's much easier to go ahead and install the U-bolts first and leave one of the pull wires or fish wires attached to one end in case you'd accidentally push it back into the frame here to pull it back through, so we'll go ahead and put our fish wire on. We're going to be going through these two holes here, and we'll feed it through this top hole first and go ahead and kind of pre-bend the fish wire here so that it comes right back out. Now, we'll go ahead and take our U-bolt. We'll feed it in, it's something like that. Now that we have our U-bolts installed, we'll make sure that each of our exhaust brackets are in the upright position here as we'll be sandwiching the hitch between the bracket and the frame. Now, it's a good idea here to get an extra set of hands to help you
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...
https://www.etrailer.com
Don’t forget to subscribe!
etrailertv
Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t...
Today on our 2014 Audi Q5, we're going to be installing the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C13136. Now, here's what our hitch looks like installed on our vehicle. Now, we'll go ahead and give you a couple measurements in helping you choose some accessories for your hitch, such as a ball mount, a bicycle rack, or a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is approximately 6 inches. From the top of the opening and the receiver to the ground is approximately 12 inches. Now, let's go ahead and install our hitch. We're going to go ahead and begin here. We're going to remove this center door section before we begin our installation.
To do that, you simply turn each of tabs here 90 degrees. Go ahead and set that out of the way. Next, we're going to need to remove four T20 Torx head screws. There is two at the middle, and then there is also one up in each wheel well. There's one here and then there's one in the same location over on the other side.
We'll go ahead and remove these four Torx head screws. Next, we're going to need to remove the snap tab. There's one each side that helps hold this bracing in place. We'll just simply push it forward. We'll pull it out like that. Go ahead and repeat same process over on the other side.
Now that we have the four screws and the two bracing tabs removed, before we can actually pull the lower fascia part off of the vehicle, you'll notice that there is four backup sensors here and we'll have to unplug them from the backside or as we're pulling it off since they're connected by wires. In order to remove each of the wiring connections from the sensor tab, we'll have to push in on its locking tab and gently pull outward. Now that we have our four sensors unplugged, now we're ready to pull out, and you'll notice that there is little plastic tabs or snaps that hold it in place. You may need to put your finger behind it and gently push down to work it out initially and then you'll just gently work along the whole lower fascia one side to the other removing the little snaps or the plastic clips. Once you get the first one started, just work your hand in along the backside and gently pull outward, and it'll continue to release the snaps. We can go ahead and set this lower fascia aside for now. Next, we're going to go ahead and put a safety strap in place to help support the exhaust once we remove the hangers from them.
We're going to go ahead and hook our safety strap up. Go ahead and pull it tight. Now with our safety strap in place, we're going to remove two bolts from each side that attach the exhaust hanger to the vehicle's frame. Next, we're going to need to cut out two of these three rubber plugs. We'll be cutting out the two that are farthest forward, so these two right here is what we'll be trimming out. Just going to take a razor knife, go around the edge. Go ahead and pull that out. Then, we'll repeat the same process over on the other side. Next, we're going to go ahead and install our 1/2 inch carriage bolt and our square hole spacer block into this hole and this hole here. We have our carriage bolt and our spacer block in. We'll slide it in like that. We can go ahead and twist it around so that it's like that. We're going to go ahead and take our gasket maker here. We're going to put a good seal all the way around. We're going to be using Loctite RTV 598 silicone gasket maker, part number LT37467. Go ahead and repeat that same process for the other hole. Now that we have our carriage bolts, our spacer blocks, and our silicone sealant around each hole, go ahead and get an extra set of hands to help us raise the hitch up into position and then we'll loosely install each of the flange nuts just to support the hitch. Now before we raise our hitch up into position here, we're going to go ahead and install each of the U-bolts. We found it's much easier to go ahead and install the U-bolts first and leave one of the pull wires or fish wires attached to one end in case you'd accidentally push it back into the frame here to pull it back through, so we'll go ahead and put our fish wire on. We're going to be going through these two holes here, and we'll feed it through this top hole first and go ahead and kind of pre-bend the fish wire here so that it comes right back out. Now, we'll go ahead and take our U-bolt. We'll feed it in, it's something like that. Now that we have our U-bolts installed, we'll make sure that each of our exhaust brackets are in the upright position here as we'll be sandwiching the hitch between the bracket and the frame. Now, it's a good idea here to get an extra set of hands to help you
10 سال پیش
در تاریخ 1393/10/24 منتشر شده
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