etrailer | Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Audi Q5 - Draw-Tite
17.4 هزار بار بازدید -
7 سال پیش
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Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t...
Today on our 2016 Audi Q5 we'll be installing the Draw-Tite Class III Max Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 75940. All right, here's what our hitch looks like installed. As you can see, it's very well hidden behind our factory bumper cover here. Tucks up nicely behind it. The one part really hanging down is the class III receiver with the 2 by 2 inch opening, and then our safety chain loops right here are also hanging down. I like the fact that our safety chain loops here are behind our hitch pins and below the receiver, because if you have a large locking device to secure your ball mount, sometimes if your safety chain loops are in this area here your hitch pin covers it up, and it makes it more difficult to attach your safety chain loops. When they're in this location here, it is easier for you to use.
It's one very nice feature about this hitch. Towards the front of our hitch we have our industry standard 5/8 inch hitch pin hole here. To the rear we have a J pin stabilization device, which is a device that's inserted to help take some annoying shake and play and rattle out of whatever inside of your receiver. We have those available separately on our website if you'd like to purchase one, unless your bike rack or cargo carrier already has an anti-rattle device built into it. This hitch features a black powder coat finish throughout it's construction. We have this nice collar welded on to the end of the receiver that helps give it a nice finished look. This hitch features a 750 pound max tongue weight rating and a 5,000 pound max gross trailer weight rating.
It does not support the use of weight distribution systems. Now for a few measurements to better assist you in choosing any hitch mounted accessory you may need, such as a ball mount, bike rack or cargo carrier. You're looking at about 4 inches from the center of the 5/8 inch diameter hitch pin hole to the rearmost point of the back bumper, and about 15 inches from the ground to the top of the class III 2 inch receiver opening. This hitch is a simple installation. It uses existing hardware already in the vehicle. On most models it requires no modification to the fascia at all, no trimming required. On some models that don't have the access cover here you will have to do some trimming, though.
Even though our hitch is recessed a little bit behind the edge of our bumper cover it does stick out far enough that most bike rack or cargo carriers should be able to clear just fine with the location of the hitch pin hole. Here's what our hitch comes with, just the hitch itself. There's no installation hardware required. It installs using existing factory hardware already on our vehicle. If you see here on the side of our hitch, this will slide into our frame channel and it'll be installed using the existing bolts in our frame channel. All right, now this hitch is a slightly involved install.
We'll need to remove our rear bumper cover in order to install that. To do that we'll open our hatch first. We can now remove all of our flooring and we'll set it aside. Now we'll remove our cargo bin 00:03:01 tray here. Now we'll remove our scuff panel here. To do that just pull straight up on it and it'll pop out. We'll remove our electrical connection here, push on the tab and it pulls out, with that unplugged. There was a tab on the top and the bottom of it too. If you find it difficult, squeeze right there and it'll come out pretty easily. There's 2 circular pockets here and our bumper support where there's a 10 millimeter nut inside. It's fairly recessed so we need an extension and a deep well socket. The other ones over here is right next to our latch mechanism. Now we need to remove our 4 cargo hooks here. There's 2 on each side of the vehicle, and they're held in place with T30 screws. There's 2 screws per hook. Once you get the screws out just lift it up. We'll repeat the same process for the other side. Now we can lift our side rails off. The back rail comes with it. Now we can remove our driver side interior panel here. Twist the latch, pull down, lift off. Now we'll remove our air compressor. Pull back on the hook and loop tape, lift up. Now we'll remove these clips here that hold a styrofoam bracket in place that held our air compressor. Just unscrew them, set them out. With those undone we'll just lift it straight up and set it aside. Right where my finger is there's another 10 millimeter nut that holds our rear bumper cover on. This is inside the compartment where the air compressor was. We're going to go ahead and remove that. For reference, that stud is right back in this area here. Now we'll remove our passenger side panel.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...
https://www.etrailer.com
Don’t forget to subscribe!
etrailertv
Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t...
Today on our 2016 Audi Q5 we'll be installing the Draw-Tite Class III Max Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 75940. All right, here's what our hitch looks like installed. As you can see, it's very well hidden behind our factory bumper cover here. Tucks up nicely behind it. The one part really hanging down is the class III receiver with the 2 by 2 inch opening, and then our safety chain loops right here are also hanging down. I like the fact that our safety chain loops here are behind our hitch pins and below the receiver, because if you have a large locking device to secure your ball mount, sometimes if your safety chain loops are in this area here your hitch pin covers it up, and it makes it more difficult to attach your safety chain loops. When they're in this location here, it is easier for you to use.
It's one very nice feature about this hitch. Towards the front of our hitch we have our industry standard 5/8 inch hitch pin hole here. To the rear we have a J pin stabilization device, which is a device that's inserted to help take some annoying shake and play and rattle out of whatever inside of your receiver. We have those available separately on our website if you'd like to purchase one, unless your bike rack or cargo carrier already has an anti-rattle device built into it. This hitch features a black powder coat finish throughout it's construction. We have this nice collar welded on to the end of the receiver that helps give it a nice finished look. This hitch features a 750 pound max tongue weight rating and a 5,000 pound max gross trailer weight rating.
It does not support the use of weight distribution systems. Now for a few measurements to better assist you in choosing any hitch mounted accessory you may need, such as a ball mount, bike rack or cargo carrier. You're looking at about 4 inches from the center of the 5/8 inch diameter hitch pin hole to the rearmost point of the back bumper, and about 15 inches from the ground to the top of the class III 2 inch receiver opening. This hitch is a simple installation. It uses existing hardware already in the vehicle. On most models it requires no modification to the fascia at all, no trimming required. On some models that don't have the access cover here you will have to do some trimming, though.
Even though our hitch is recessed a little bit behind the edge of our bumper cover it does stick out far enough that most bike rack or cargo carriers should be able to clear just fine with the location of the hitch pin hole. Here's what our hitch comes with, just the hitch itself. There's no installation hardware required. It installs using existing factory hardware already on our vehicle. If you see here on the side of our hitch, this will slide into our frame channel and it'll be installed using the existing bolts in our frame channel. All right, now this hitch is a slightly involved install.
We'll need to remove our rear bumper cover in order to install that. To do that we'll open our hatch first. We can now remove all of our flooring and we'll set it aside. Now we'll remove our cargo bin 00:03:01 tray here. Now we'll remove our scuff panel here. To do that just pull straight up on it and it'll pop out. We'll remove our electrical connection here, push on the tab and it pulls out, with that unplugged. There was a tab on the top and the bottom of it too. If you find it difficult, squeeze right there and it'll come out pretty easily. There's 2 circular pockets here and our bumper support where there's a 10 millimeter nut inside. It's fairly recessed so we need an extension and a deep well socket. The other ones over here is right next to our latch mechanism. Now we need to remove our 4 cargo hooks here. There's 2 on each side of the vehicle, and they're held in place with T30 screws. There's 2 screws per hook. Once you get the screws out just lift it up. We'll repeat the same process for the other side. Now we can lift our side rails off. The back rail comes with it. Now we can remove our driver side interior panel here. Twist the latch, pull down, lift off. Now we'll remove our air compressor. Pull back on the hook and loop tape, lift up. Now we'll remove these clips here that hold a styrofoam bracket in place that held our air compressor. Just unscrew them, set them out. With those undone we'll just lift it straight up and set it aside. Right where my finger is there's another 10 millimeter nut that holds our rear bumper cover on. This is inside the compartment where the air compressor was. We're going to go ahead and remove that. For reference, that stud is right back in this area here. Now we'll remove our passenger side panel.
7 سال پیش
در تاریخ 1396/09/25 منتشر شده
است.
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