When the Coldness Sets In & The Body Disagrees With the Mind
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Well, first things first: if
Well, first things first: if this supposed "El Nino" ever actually existed this year, it has officially been over for months now. And the reason I know that is because the waves suck, and it has been FREEZING. It is so freezing that you start not being able to feel certain body parts anymore and wonder if they will still be functional after the surf or even still be there. This video was shot a few months back, and it's officially Summer now, but I swear it's still pretty friggin' cold.
Being that cold does something to your body. Specifically, it makes you SUCK harder than you already suck. And that's depressing because I already suck pretty hard.
But I've noticed something interesting with Travis: when his body stops cooperating with him, he doesn't fight it; he just kind of accepts it and rolls with it. I first noticed this phenomenon last summer when we surfed our favorite little "secret spot," and fatigue had set in after many hours and waves in warmer water. This is a GOOD thing because your body is sort of falling apart after too much time spent having fun. Yet, it's no less hilarious watching Travis' big frame malfunction after several hours of ripping (by our standards).
This winter, I noticed a similar thing, but it was due to being freezing. We both agreed on the day of this surf that we hadn't felt the waters this cold since we both lived up North. It definitely affects comfort and performance. It even affects your decision-making because you're like, "I'm so cold! I'm so cold! I'm so cold! I need a wave so bad! Oh, that looks like a good one! Ahhh, f*cking closeout! Now I have to duckdive again!!!"
But does that get Travis down? I really don't think so. I watch his expressions and mannerisms while he's out there, and he seems calmly resigned to the fact that his body has begun to disagree with him, and he just keeps going. He has this look like, "Hmmmm, I really wanted to put my board and body THERE, but physics is going to take me HERE....Hmmm, ok, whatever..." Or, "Oh, I'd really prefer to NOT fall HERE and subsequently duck dive 14 straight waves (yes, I counted) in freezing cold water. But that's what you're going to do to me? Umm, ok....Guess that's the hand I've been dealt." Eventually, he finds what he's after and goes in when he feels like his mission is accomplished.
It's pretty rad to watch. No matter what his body or Mother Nature throw at him, he just keeps coming. That's why I've said it before, and I'll continue to say it: Travis is the most entertaining surfer in the world.
Being that cold does something to your body. Specifically, it makes you SUCK harder than you already suck. And that's depressing because I already suck pretty hard.
But I've noticed something interesting with Travis: when his body stops cooperating with him, he doesn't fight it; he just kind of accepts it and rolls with it. I first noticed this phenomenon last summer when we surfed our favorite little "secret spot," and fatigue had set in after many hours and waves in warmer water. This is a GOOD thing because your body is sort of falling apart after too much time spent having fun. Yet, it's no less hilarious watching Travis' big frame malfunction after several hours of ripping (by our standards).
This winter, I noticed a similar thing, but it was due to being freezing. We both agreed on the day of this surf that we hadn't felt the waters this cold since we both lived up North. It definitely affects comfort and performance. It even affects your decision-making because you're like, "I'm so cold! I'm so cold! I'm so cold! I need a wave so bad! Oh, that looks like a good one! Ahhh, f*cking closeout! Now I have to duckdive again!!!"
But does that get Travis down? I really don't think so. I watch his expressions and mannerisms while he's out there, and he seems calmly resigned to the fact that his body has begun to disagree with him, and he just keeps going. He has this look like, "Hmmmm, I really wanted to put my board and body THERE, but physics is going to take me HERE....Hmmm, ok, whatever..." Or, "Oh, I'd really prefer to NOT fall HERE and subsequently duck dive 14 straight waves (yes, I counted) in freezing cold water. But that's what you're going to do to me? Umm, ok....Guess that's the hand I've been dealt." Eventually, he finds what he's after and goes in when he feels like his mission is accomplished.
It's pretty rad to watch. No matter what his body or Mother Nature throw at him, he just keeps coming. That's why I've said it before, and I'll continue to say it: Travis is the most entertaining surfer in the world.
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در تاریخ 1403/04/08 منتشر شده
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