Principles of Training (for Alpinism)

Jon Murua
Jon Murua
9.8 هزار بار بازدید - 2 سال پیش - Alpinism is one of the
Alpinism is one of the most complete and hardest sport;
One, must be very fit and to have strong muscles in both, legs and arms as we use the full body for climbing.

Climbing skills, technical knowledge and mental strength also play a key role in technical alpinism, but those are for another video.

In this video, I'll focus on the three principles that I follow for my physical trainings to prepare for expeditions in the Alps.

One of the most fundamental principle of endurance training is to steadily increase the amount of exercice every week.
Spending between 5 and 10÷ more time training every week is good.
Every month or so, it's good to have a rest week for the body to recover and to absorbe the training.

For example, if last week we trained for 10 hours, this week, we should train for 11 hours and next week for 12 hours...
You can see this quickly becomes plenty of training hours!

Training can be any physical exercise, for example, cycling, running, skiing or even football. We can adapt to our circumstances, like, the weather, our friends' plans or injuries.
In my case, in winter and spring, I go ski touring, while closer to the summer I start cycling. But if my friends are going trail running, I might as well join them and change my training plan because...

... Because the second principle is to have fun!
I have tried for a year to follow a training plan like a robot but I have also tried for another year to not follow a training plan and to follow my feelings.
Both years I managed to improve significantly, but I had much more fun when I didn't follow the plan thoughtfully.

In fact, let me mention the two most notorious North Face speed climbers, Ueli Steck and Dani Arnold. Both Swiss, they come from very different schools.
Ueli Steck was known as the Swiss machine as he used to follow his training plans to the millimeter while Dani Arnold follows more his feelings. Regardless of their approach, they have both accomplished extraordinary records.

The third principle is to focus on your weaknesses.
We improve a bit by repeating what we are good at, but we improve so much more if we train our limiting factors.

This principle will guide us to decide what aspects to train and if we're continuously monitoring our weaknesses and strengths, we should be adapting our trainings every few months.

For example, when I started climbing, my weakness was my finger strength. So I started training on the hangboard. A few months later, I realized that what was holding me back, was my flexibility, so I started doing yoga. Then I noticed that I was getting pumped up while placing cams so I focused my trainings on lock off strength...

This approach has helped me to keep continually improving and to become a better all round climber.


It's good to have a goal, like a project, and to prepare a plan to train for it.
But rather than following the plan like a robot, if you use it as a guideline and follow these three principles, you'll get there, you'll enjoy the way and it will be better for the long-term ;)

So, just to summarize:
Increase the training volume every week by 5-10÷
Adapt the training to the environment or season to have fun while training.
And to focus on your weaknesses.


This is the first video of a series of videos about training for alpinism. The next video will be about fitness training.
Subscribe to my channel to be notified when the new video gets published.

Have fun in the mountains and stay safe!


Video credit:
Dani Arnold video from Mammut:
Dani Arnold - Speed Record  on the Gr...
Ueli Steck video from Jon Griffith:
Grandes Jorasses north face speed sol...

Music credit:
Wasting Time by Sapajou & Yorgo H
SoundCloud: sapajoubeats
SoundCloud: belgianwaffles
Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported — CC BY 3.0
Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/3gaqYlU
Music promoted by Audio Library Wasting Time – Sapajou & Yorgo H (No ...
Life Is by Cosimo Fogg (201) SoundCloud: cosimo-fogg
Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0
Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/_life-is
Music promoted by Audio Library Life Is – Cosimo Fogg 201 (No Copyrig...
Jazzaddict's Intro by Cosimo Fogg (201) SoundCloud: cosimo-fogg
Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0
Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/jazzaddicts-intro
Music promoted by Audio Library Jazzaddict's Intro – Cosimo Fogg (201...
2 سال پیش در تاریخ 1400/12/08 منتشر شده است.
9,816 بـار بازدید شده
... بیشتر