Above Ground Pool Liners - Buyer's Guide
113.7 هزار بار بازدید -
6 سال پیش
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𝑭𝒊𝒏𝒅 𝑨 𝑮𝒓𝒆𝒂𝒕 𝑩𝒂𝒄𝒌𝒚𝒂𝒓𝒅 𝑷𝒍𝒂𝒄𝒆
𝑭𝒊𝒏𝒅 𝑨 𝑮𝒓𝒆𝒂𝒕 𝑩𝒂𝒄𝒌𝒚𝒂𝒓𝒅 𝑷𝒍𝒂𝒄𝒆 𝒏𝒆𝒂𝒓 𝒚𝒐𝒖:
Asheville, NC: http://bit.ly/GBYasheville
Chattanooga, TN: http://bit.ly/GBYchatt
Knoxville, TN: http://bit.ly/GBYknox
Maryville, TN: http://bit.ly/GBYmaryville
Cleveland, TN: http://bit.ly/GBYcleveland
𝗧𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗯𝗮𝘀𝗶𝗰𝗮𝗹𝗹𝘆 𝟰 𝘁𝘆𝗽𝗲𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗹𝗶𝗻𝗲𝗿𝘀:
There's an overlap liner. It simply folds over the wall. Often times you'll have a generous portion of a pattern up top and then some basic print down bottom, because there's going to be irregularity in how it's seated. Then there is a J-hook liner right here, which is going to actually hook over the wall. And there's a beaded liner. This right here is a unibead liner; that's the fourth kind of liner, it can either be installed as a J-hook, hooking directly over the wall, or this is cut right here and this bead goes into a bead receiver. This is a piece of bead receiver right here. So, this is going to lap over the wall right here and the liner's going to lock into this track.
The benefit, the beauty, in having a beaded liner, is that when it comes time to change the liner, if you have a deck built around it, there's not disassemblage of the deck required. You can simply cut the liner, pull out the top of the liner, the bead. You don't have to take the top seats off, you don't have to disassemble anything, and you pop the new liner in there and suck it to the side and put water in it.
A J-hook liner is like a compromise. A J-hook liner provides a tight seal for water around the top of the wall; however, when it comes time to replace the liner, you are going to have to disassemble the top of the pool.
When it comes to prints, you're going to have a lot more diversity in J-hooks and beaded liners. However, what we're looking for is what makes the most sense for you, the owner of the pool, considering longevity and usage of the pool.
The second aspect of a liner that we have to consider is the thickness of the liner. Now, the marketplace is inundated with false information about liners. It's very difficult for you as the consumer to get to the truth because there's so many different terms used to describe the thickness of the liner. On some websites, you're going to find the term "gauge" used, which is only appropriate when applied to metal thickness, not liner thickness. The right gauge for a liner is "mil." Virtually nobody in the marketplace is going to tell you the true thickness of the liner measured in mils. That is because above ground liners are not made to the thickness of inground liners.
So the popular terminology that you're going to encounter to describe the thickness of a liner is a P2000 (or P20) and a P2500 (or P25). There are a couple manufacturers that make a true 20 mil liner or 28 mil liner for above ground pools. They're about double the cost and about double the weight. We've found that you're most appropriately served at the P25 level; that is about a 16-mil liner, okay? So that's, as you feel these liners, as you shop for the liner, actually feel the liner. You'll feel the difference between a P20 and a P25. You go from a 13 mil to a 16 mil. So, you get up there in almost inground territory on that P25. Everything that we stock is a P25.
Most of the problems with liners, with sub-par manufacturers, come from seam separations during the installation process. Seam separations can't be mended by a simple patch, whereas if your kid grabs that telescopic pole and uses it as a pole vault to jump into the pool and knocks a hole in the bottom of the pool, you can put a patch, an underwater patch, on that thing and expect the lifespan of the liner to continue to its normal lifespan with the patch. However, the greatest enemy of a liner is the sun. With any plastics, there are UV inhibitors. We use lots of UV inhibitors to try to retain the color of the liner. But what prompts most people to replace an above ground liner is the simple fading process. Over time, the UV and chlorine in the water is going to fade that liner. We're talking about between five and 15 years.
Asheville, NC: http://bit.ly/GBYasheville
Chattanooga, TN: http://bit.ly/GBYchatt
Knoxville, TN: http://bit.ly/GBYknox
Maryville, TN: http://bit.ly/GBYmaryville
Cleveland, TN: http://bit.ly/GBYcleveland
𝗧𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗯𝗮𝘀𝗶𝗰𝗮𝗹𝗹𝘆 𝟰 𝘁𝘆𝗽𝗲𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗹𝗶𝗻𝗲𝗿𝘀:
There's an overlap liner. It simply folds over the wall. Often times you'll have a generous portion of a pattern up top and then some basic print down bottom, because there's going to be irregularity in how it's seated. Then there is a J-hook liner right here, which is going to actually hook over the wall. And there's a beaded liner. This right here is a unibead liner; that's the fourth kind of liner, it can either be installed as a J-hook, hooking directly over the wall, or this is cut right here and this bead goes into a bead receiver. This is a piece of bead receiver right here. So, this is going to lap over the wall right here and the liner's going to lock into this track.
The benefit, the beauty, in having a beaded liner, is that when it comes time to change the liner, if you have a deck built around it, there's not disassemblage of the deck required. You can simply cut the liner, pull out the top of the liner, the bead. You don't have to take the top seats off, you don't have to disassemble anything, and you pop the new liner in there and suck it to the side and put water in it.
A J-hook liner is like a compromise. A J-hook liner provides a tight seal for water around the top of the wall; however, when it comes time to replace the liner, you are going to have to disassemble the top of the pool.
When it comes to prints, you're going to have a lot more diversity in J-hooks and beaded liners. However, what we're looking for is what makes the most sense for you, the owner of the pool, considering longevity and usage of the pool.
The second aspect of a liner that we have to consider is the thickness of the liner. Now, the marketplace is inundated with false information about liners. It's very difficult for you as the consumer to get to the truth because there's so many different terms used to describe the thickness of the liner. On some websites, you're going to find the term "gauge" used, which is only appropriate when applied to metal thickness, not liner thickness. The right gauge for a liner is "mil." Virtually nobody in the marketplace is going to tell you the true thickness of the liner measured in mils. That is because above ground liners are not made to the thickness of inground liners.
So the popular terminology that you're going to encounter to describe the thickness of a liner is a P2000 (or P20) and a P2500 (or P25). There are a couple manufacturers that make a true 20 mil liner or 28 mil liner for above ground pools. They're about double the cost and about double the weight. We've found that you're most appropriately served at the P25 level; that is about a 16-mil liner, okay? So that's, as you feel these liners, as you shop for the liner, actually feel the liner. You'll feel the difference between a P20 and a P25. You go from a 13 mil to a 16 mil. So, you get up there in almost inground territory on that P25. Everything that we stock is a P25.
Most of the problems with liners, with sub-par manufacturers, come from seam separations during the installation process. Seam separations can't be mended by a simple patch, whereas if your kid grabs that telescopic pole and uses it as a pole vault to jump into the pool and knocks a hole in the bottom of the pool, you can put a patch, an underwater patch, on that thing and expect the lifespan of the liner to continue to its normal lifespan with the patch. However, the greatest enemy of a liner is the sun. With any plastics, there are UV inhibitors. We use lots of UV inhibitors to try to retain the color of the liner. But what prompts most people to replace an above ground liner is the simple fading process. Over time, the UV and chlorine in the water is going to fade that liner. We're talking about between five and 15 years.
6 سال پیش
در تاریخ 1397/02/13 منتشر شده
است.
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