Can You Get a Professional Paint Job Out Of Your HOME Garage?

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Paradice Garage
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Let’s get on to the topic of painting in general. How many of you are painting in a spray booth? A lot of you have fear that they need a spray booth, bake the paint and be in a totally dust-free environment to get awesome paint jobs. How many of you have heard of that before and believed it to be true?

You can actually put home-made plastic up, have some ventilation and put filters if you want to, to get amazing paint jobs.

You don’t need to have crazy set up to have amazing paint jobs. There is no need to spray in paint booths. If a bug lands on your enamel paint job, just sand it out, repaint the area and maybe buff it out.

Even with base coat clear coat, it is so much easier to fix nowadays. If you make a mistake with the base coat, you just need to sand it out and wait 30 minutes. Then, dust it and you’re good.

As for clear coat, as long as you have enough clear on it, sand it out after it cures and dries then buff it out. Not too bad.

I paint in my own shop right here. Check out the video as I show you my shop. We make professional show shine finishes right here.

If you’re painting in your own garage, make sure you sweep out your shop. This is the main thing. Hose down your floors. Wet it before you start painting. It keeps the dust down and out.

Cover up your tool boxes and walls if you don’t want to overspray especially if you’re doing a single-stage paint job.

Single-stage paint is acrylic enamel. It’s just one color and dries shiny. You just need to put two to three coats of that paint and you’re done.

This type of paint is thick and gets everywhere. For example, if you go on with black shoes and you’re painting a white car, you’ll walk out with white shoes. That’s how much overspray it does. Plus, it’s really sticky. It’s ridiculous. I don’t do a lot of single-stage paint jobs nowadays.

On the other hand, base coat clear coat doesn’t give as much overspray. It’s very minimal. As long as you have good ventilation, it just goes out without any problems.

Question: What do I recommend, 1K or 2K?

It depends on what kind of job you’re doing. If you’re doing a quick one where you just want to get it in and out plus, you’re on a budget, I’d recommend single-stage.

If you’re doing more of a custom job and want to play around with the paint a little bit more, I recommend base coat clear coat.

In your clear coat time, you can put flake or pearls. I don’t know if you can see it, but on my Miata, I put some micro sequence flake in it. You can just do more with base coat clear coat.

I also used base coat clear coat on my bike with the blend job and the flames here. Also did the pin stripe and clear coat it over everything. I can actually sand this down with 1500-grit and clear it again to get a better gloss.

You have a lot more play room with base coat clear coat. It’s more of a professional style of paint. It will last longer and more durable.

Question: Can you correct imperfections like nibs and peel on single-stage?

Absolutely. You just have to sand it out with 1500-grit, get out the nibbles then buff it out as you would base coat clear coat. You’re going to get the paint transfer on the wool pad because it’s a single stage. That’s normal, but you’ll be able to buff it out with the foam pad as well to get the brilliant shine back.

I heard you have to be more careful with metallic single-stage paint because you could cloud out the metallic as you are buffing. That’s what I heard, but I’ve never experienced that problem.

I’ve buffed out metallic single-stage, color sanded it and buffed it out with no issues at all. But, it’s just something you have to watch out for.

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