How to Replace the Spark Plugs on a Toyota Tacoma or 4Runner 3.4L V6
129.2 هزار بار بازدید -
5 سال پیش
-
How to replace the spark
How to replace the spark plugs on a 3.4L V6 1st generation Tacoma Tacoma. A similar procedure also applies to the third generation Toyota 4Runner. In order to produce this video, Bosch has been kind enough to provide me with the parts required for this replacement. Typically worn spark plugs can cause poor performance, poor fuel economy, delayed throttle response, poor idling, flat spots along the rpm range, misfire, and poor emissions. #toyota #toyotatacoma #toyota4runner
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-ratchet with extensions
-5/8" spark plug socket
-10mm socket
-interlocking pliers
-new spark plugs
Procedure:
In order to gain access to the plugs, you’ll need to remove the intake tube first. This is done by loosening the 10mm bolts on the clamps, 3 need to be loosened.
Before removing the spark plugs, there is a coil on top of each cylinder on the passenger side and these also have a jumper wire going over to the driver’s side. First is removing the spark plug wire, use a standard screwdriver or a pick to pull the tang back and then pull the connector straight while.
Loosen the 10mm retaining bolts for each of the coil packs, there will be 3 in total.
Press the tang on the side of the wire connectors for the coil packs and remove.
Then remove the 10mm bolts.
And finally remove the coil packs.
For the spark plugs, this is the easier side. Using a 3/8” drive ratchet with a 6” extension and a 5/8” spark plug socket.
Remove the 3 spark plugs and ensure nothing falls into the holes. You can also inspect each of the oils before removing the spark plugs to ensure there is no debris which may fall inside the combustion chamber. Compressed air or a vacuum can be used to clean out the holes and if debris is found, do this before the park plugs are removed.
Using the spark plug socket with the rubber grommet, install each of the plugs, thread them by hand first. The torque specs are 13 ft libs or 156 inch pounds.
Reinstall the coil packs and intake tube.
For the driver’s side, this has spark plug wires instead of coils. I find it’s best to disconnect the rear spark plug wire from the wire retaining clips to get a bit of extra movement. For the spark plug boots, twist and pull, otherwise you can risk damaging the wires. I have already tested the spark plug wires on this truck and I do have a video for this. They do meet within the factory resistance requirement so they do not need to be replaced.
There is a bracket which braces the air plenum, the spark plug replacement can be done with this bracket in place, however it can be a bit tight. You’ll also need to pop the rubber fuel line out of it’s location form the plenum bracket.
For the first spark plug, there is a ground wire connecting to the intake and I did loosen the 10mm bolt, then rotated the connection so it didn’t interfere with my extension.
Using a 6” extension with the 5/8” spark plug socket and the 3/8 drive ratchet, it’s probably doable but hard on this side.
If you have over a 12” extension, this makes the replacement much easier as you don’t have to work around all the components around the valve cover. If you find there is debris inside the spark plug holes, again before they’re removed, clean these using compressed air or a vacuum.
And then install the new spark plugs using the spark plug socket. First run them in by hand.
Snug each one up with a ratchet.
And finally torque to spec using the torque wrench, it is 13 ft lbs or 156 inch pounds.
Then reinstall the spark plug wires. Die electric grease can be used on the top terminal of the spark plug to prevent the wires terminals from seizing.
And clip the rubber fuel line back into place on the air plenum bracket.
As for the spark plug wire replacement, I’ll brief explain how they’re replaced. As you can see the spark pug wires run from the passenger side to the driver’s side. You’ll need to match up the seizing between the new and old wires, disconnect the old wires from the retaining clips. These wires run along the top of the timing belt case cover. They simply clip into place. Each wire is numbered outlining their firing order, so it’s quite easy to match everything up. Then clip the new wires into the wire retaining clips and you’re done.
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
Website: http://4diyers.com
Patreon: Patreon: 4diyers
Facebook: Facebook: 4diyers
Google Plus: https://plus.google.com/+4DIYers
Twitter: Twitter: 4DIYers
Instagram: Instagram: 4diyers
Tumblr: Tumblr: 4diyers
Pintrest: Pinterest: 4diyers
Tools/Supplies Needed:
-ratchet with extensions
-5/8" spark plug socket
-10mm socket
-interlocking pliers
-new spark plugs
Procedure:
In order to gain access to the plugs, you’ll need to remove the intake tube first. This is done by loosening the 10mm bolts on the clamps, 3 need to be loosened.
Before removing the spark plugs, there is a coil on top of each cylinder on the passenger side and these also have a jumper wire going over to the driver’s side. First is removing the spark plug wire, use a standard screwdriver or a pick to pull the tang back and then pull the connector straight while.
Loosen the 10mm retaining bolts for each of the coil packs, there will be 3 in total.
Press the tang on the side of the wire connectors for the coil packs and remove.
Then remove the 10mm bolts.
And finally remove the coil packs.
For the spark plugs, this is the easier side. Using a 3/8” drive ratchet with a 6” extension and a 5/8” spark plug socket.
Remove the 3 spark plugs and ensure nothing falls into the holes. You can also inspect each of the oils before removing the spark plugs to ensure there is no debris which may fall inside the combustion chamber. Compressed air or a vacuum can be used to clean out the holes and if debris is found, do this before the park plugs are removed.
Using the spark plug socket with the rubber grommet, install each of the plugs, thread them by hand first. The torque specs are 13 ft libs or 156 inch pounds.
Reinstall the coil packs and intake tube.
For the driver’s side, this has spark plug wires instead of coils. I find it’s best to disconnect the rear spark plug wire from the wire retaining clips to get a bit of extra movement. For the spark plug boots, twist and pull, otherwise you can risk damaging the wires. I have already tested the spark plug wires on this truck and I do have a video for this. They do meet within the factory resistance requirement so they do not need to be replaced.
There is a bracket which braces the air plenum, the spark plug replacement can be done with this bracket in place, however it can be a bit tight. You’ll also need to pop the rubber fuel line out of it’s location form the plenum bracket.
For the first spark plug, there is a ground wire connecting to the intake and I did loosen the 10mm bolt, then rotated the connection so it didn’t interfere with my extension.
Using a 6” extension with the 5/8” spark plug socket and the 3/8 drive ratchet, it’s probably doable but hard on this side.
If you have over a 12” extension, this makes the replacement much easier as you don’t have to work around all the components around the valve cover. If you find there is debris inside the spark plug holes, again before they’re removed, clean these using compressed air or a vacuum.
And then install the new spark plugs using the spark plug socket. First run them in by hand.
Snug each one up with a ratchet.
And finally torque to spec using the torque wrench, it is 13 ft lbs or 156 inch pounds.
Then reinstall the spark plug wires. Die electric grease can be used on the top terminal of the spark plug to prevent the wires terminals from seizing.
And clip the rubber fuel line back into place on the air plenum bracket.
As for the spark plug wire replacement, I’ll brief explain how they’re replaced. As you can see the spark pug wires run from the passenger side to the driver’s side. You’ll need to match up the seizing between the new and old wires, disconnect the old wires from the retaining clips. These wires run along the top of the timing belt case cover. They simply clip into place. Each wire is numbered outlining their firing order, so it’s quite easy to match everything up. Then clip the new wires into the wire retaining clips and you’re done.
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
5 سال پیش
در تاریخ 1397/11/05 منتشر شده
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