Budget Open Baffle Speaker Build with Music Demos
15.5 هزار بار بازدید -
2 سال پیش
-
Budget Open Baffle Speaker BuildBig
Budget Open Baffle Speaker Build
Big Shout outs to: Nick at Toids DIY Audio and Danny at GR Research for all the great helpful videos. Also, to Parts Express for having everything in stock , shipping quickly, and packaging everything well.
Parts List:
2 Goldwood GW-8004/8 8" Coaxial Drivers( A Qts of 0.910, very important for open
baffle)
https://www.parts-express.com/Goldwoo...
2 2.5mH 18AWG Air Core Inductors
2 7ohm 12w resistors
2 Pair of binding post
- Half sheet of 3/4" Plywood(or MDF)
- 5' of 12 gauge speaker wire
All background music and Demo Clips are supplied by:
https://tunetank.com/ - Free use music, 320kb MP3 files
https://tunetank.com/t/1r8u/406-succe...
https://tunetank.com/t/1r8u/783-warm-...
https://tunetank.com/t/1r8u/207-arabi...
https://tunetank.com/t/1r8u/188-when-...
-Free Online Software used for this project:
Xsim-crossover design, FP Graph Tracer-to help with FRD and ZMA files,
DIY Audio Projects Baffle Step Calculator.
Tools: Table Saw, Router (w/ 1.5" and 3/4" round over bits, 5/8" rabbet bit), Random Orbital Sander, Jig Saw, Jasper Circle Jig, Drill
Build Plans:
Front Baffles 10"w x 30"h, Bottoms- 10"w x 14"d, Inside wings- 30"h x 14"d
,Outside wings- 30"h x 4"d
- You can adjust the height of the Baffle and Side Wings with your subs height
to keep the tweeters at ear level.
-Use a 5/8" rabbet bit on your router to create lap joints at every
connection point. Wood Glue and a lot of clamps to secure everything
-Hole for driver is 7.125", Counter sink hole is 8" A circle jig can really help
with these cuts
-Use a router with 1.5" round-over bit around the perimeter of the front baffle
-Use a router with a 3/4" round-over bit on the back side of the driver hole on
the baffle
-Wire one inductor and resistor in parallel on the positive lead to each
speaker, the negative just goes straight to the negative binding post
Room and equipment:
15' x 30' unfinished basement, speakers were 5 feet apart and 6 feet from mics. No front wall behind them. Onkyo TX-DS898THX Receiver, Definitive Technology ProSub 100, Topping BC3 Blue Tooth Receiver using LDAC codec from my Galaxy Z-Flip cell.
Link to some more music clips with my Budget Open Baffle Speakers:
More Music Demos with my Budget Open ...
System Setup: I know several folks would recommend running these Full Range through the subs High Level inputs. After several listening sessions of trial and error, I settled on a 2.1 channel setup using the LEF channel. Set the speakers to small, rolling off at 80Hz and set the sub pass filter to 90Hz. I think this old THX receiver handles that crossover point well and did sound cleaner in the upper bass material.
EQ Settings: These drivers are naturally midrange heavy so I had to EQ them more than I'm used to. I EQ'ed them very similarly on three different systems in my house. A V-shaped curve about -6dbs at 500Hz and 1kHz range. EQ, Room Correction, and DSP can all help.
Room placement and Toe-in: Definitely 3 feet+ from a front wall, with no toe-in. My best results were in my basement with no wall behind them.
Summary and conclusions:
I think I accomplished most of what I was shooting for. I did go a little over budget( $120 for parts) mainly because Parts Express did not have the inductors I needed so I upgraded to Jantzen and upgraded my resistors to Mills. If you go with Dayton Audio parts you'll be back closer to $100. The wood, binding post, floor tile, foam, and wire were things I already had from other builds.
On imaging, sound stage, and depth:
I am hearing some surprises on certain tracks. This all could be just my first experiences with: open baffle, coaxial drivers, and no wall behind them. I am noticing a wider sound stage and a depth to different instruments on certain recordings. I'm still working on the center image. Toe in, straight forward, toe out, do the hokey pokey, etc.
I'll share more details after I break them in.
Pros:
-Simple design
-Cheap parts
-Easy to modify
-Subwoofer Ready
-Surprising Imaging and sound stage. Wider and more distinct on some tracks
Cons:
-Driver needs some help. Filters, EQ, Room Correction, and/or DSP to help flatten it's
response
-50 watts RMS means you cannot over drive them.
Other Mods and Tweaks:
-Use 1" thick wood for Baffle. If you countersink the driver it gives the screws more holding
power. It will also help with damping resonances
-Add 2 open cut out braces connecting the side wings in back, again to knock down
resonances
-Try a larger gauge inductor(14AWG?)
Big Shout outs to: Nick at Toids DIY Audio and Danny at GR Research for all the great helpful videos. Also, to Parts Express for having everything in stock , shipping quickly, and packaging everything well.
Parts List:
baffle)
https://www.parts-express.com/Goldwoo...
- Half sheet of 3/4" Plywood(or MDF)
- 5' of 12 gauge speaker wire
All background music and Demo Clips are supplied by:
https://tunetank.com/ - Free use music, 320kb MP3 files
https://tunetank.com/t/1r8u/406-succe...
https://tunetank.com/t/1r8u/783-warm-...
https://tunetank.com/t/1r8u/207-arabi...
https://tunetank.com/t/1r8u/188-when-...
-Free Online Software used for this project:
Xsim-crossover design, FP Graph Tracer-to help with FRD and ZMA files,
DIY Audio Projects Baffle Step Calculator.
Tools: Table Saw, Router (w/ 1.5" and 3/4" round over bits, 5/8" rabbet bit), Random Orbital Sander, Jig Saw, Jasper Circle Jig, Drill
Build Plans:
,Outside wings- 30"h x 4"d
- You can adjust the height of the Baffle and Side Wings with your subs height
to keep the tweeters at ear level.
-Use a 5/8" rabbet bit on your router to create lap joints at every
connection point. Wood Glue and a lot of clamps to secure everything
-Hole for driver is 7.125", Counter sink hole is 8" A circle jig can really help
with these cuts
-Use a router with 1.5" round-over bit around the perimeter of the front baffle
-Use a router with a 3/4" round-over bit on the back side of the driver hole on
the baffle
-Wire one inductor and resistor in parallel on the positive lead to each
speaker, the negative just goes straight to the negative binding post
Room and equipment:
15' x 30' unfinished basement, speakers were 5 feet apart and 6 feet from mics. No front wall behind them. Onkyo TX-DS898THX Receiver, Definitive Technology ProSub 100, Topping BC3 Blue Tooth Receiver using LDAC codec from my Galaxy Z-Flip cell.
Link to some more music clips with my Budget Open Baffle Speakers:
More Music Demos with my Budget Open ...
System Setup: I know several folks would recommend running these Full Range through the subs High Level inputs. After several listening sessions of trial and error, I settled on a 2.1 channel setup using the LEF channel. Set the speakers to small, rolling off at 80Hz and set the sub pass filter to 90Hz. I think this old THX receiver handles that crossover point well and did sound cleaner in the upper bass material.
EQ Settings: These drivers are naturally midrange heavy so I had to EQ them more than I'm used to. I EQ'ed them very similarly on three different systems in my house. A V-shaped curve about -6dbs at 500Hz and 1kHz range. EQ, Room Correction, and DSP can all help.
Room placement and Toe-in: Definitely 3 feet+ from a front wall, with no toe-in. My best results were in my basement with no wall behind them.
Summary and conclusions:
I think I accomplished most of what I was shooting for. I did go a little over budget( $120 for parts) mainly because Parts Express did not have the inductors I needed so I upgraded to Jantzen and upgraded my resistors to Mills. If you go with Dayton Audio parts you'll be back closer to $100. The wood, binding post, floor tile, foam, and wire were things I already had from other builds.
On imaging, sound stage, and depth:
I am hearing some surprises on certain tracks. This all could be just my first experiences with: open baffle, coaxial drivers, and no wall behind them. I am noticing a wider sound stage and a depth to different instruments on certain recordings. I'm still working on the center image. Toe in, straight forward, toe out, do the hokey pokey, etc.
I'll share more details after I break them in.
Pros:
-Simple design
-Cheap parts
-Easy to modify
-Subwoofer Ready
-Surprising Imaging and sound stage. Wider and more distinct on some tracks
Cons:
-Driver needs some help. Filters, EQ, Room Correction, and/or DSP to help flatten it's
response
-50 watts RMS means you cannot over drive them.
Other Mods and Tweaks:
-Use 1" thick wood for Baffle. If you countersink the driver it gives the screws more holding
power. It will also help with damping resonances
-Add 2 open cut out braces connecting the side wings in back, again to knock down
resonances
-Try a larger gauge inductor(14AWG?)
2 سال پیش
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