10 Finish Carpentry Tips
57.5 هزار بار بازدید -
3 سال پیش
-
Milwaukee Tools GRID Apprentice Program
Milwaukee Tools GRID Apprentice Program Website:
Click this Link: http://www.mke.tl/GRID-YT
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#GRID
I’ve partnered with Milwaukee Tool’s GRID apprentice program to share with you 10 trim carpentry tips that I’ve picked up over the years. Alright let's jump into the tips:
Tip 1: Tune You Miter Saw
For accurate cuts, it’s important to calibrate your miter saw. A 1° difference over a 1-in. span will result in a 1/32-in. the gap in the finished miter joint.
Safety Tip: Make sure to have the power source (battery or cord) removed when you make those adjustments
Use a quality combination square to confirm the blade’s miter and bevel alignment, adjusting if necessary. Check your saw manual for specific instructions on how to adjust the blade
Tip 2: Mark Studs On Floor
If you have the opportunity to be on the project before the wallboard is installed take the time to mark your studs and any pipe locations on the subfloor. Those marks can be transferred onto the wall later prior if the flooring goes in before the trim.
Tip 3: Long runs – Use A Scarf Joint
When a wall is longer than the trim boards you are installing, you’ll need to join two boards along the straight run with a splice miter.
A splice miter (also called a scarf joint) is superior to a butt joint), because it’s more visually appealing and creates more surface area for glue or adhesive to make a stronger joint.
Try to layout your Scarf joint on a stud for solid nailing. A splicing miter is typically cut at a 30° bevel. I like to make both 30° bevels without moving the setting on the saw. This is easily accomplished by cutting one trim board left-of-blade and the other right-of-blade.
Tip 4: Don’t measure - Mark Cuts With A Knife
It is more accurate to mark trim in place than to measure and then transfer numbers off your tape measure. It’s easy to misread a tape or to confuse numbers while walking to the saw.
To do this:
Place a piece of trim in position, then use the tip of the knife blade to make a knick mark on the edge of the board.
Tip 5: Use Back Bevels
Adding back bevels to trim butting against a wall corner can help with fitting. When butting trim into each other a 5-degree back cut can give you a tighter-looking fit since there is less material touching.
The beveled board is also easier to scribe or adjust with a block plane if you need to. Uneven walls or misaligned jambs make it hard to get tight-fitting miters. If your miter has a consistent gap at the front, there’s a good chance that putting a slight back bevel on the butting molding will fix the problem.
There are two fast and easy ways to cut a slight back bevel:
1st method is to cut trim vertically if it fits in your saw.
2nd method is better for larger baseboard stock. Shim the molding with a pencil and cut it flat on the saw table. You can adjust the position or thickness of the bevel by moving the pencil.
Tip 6: Cut longer and snap in place
Then fit horizontal elements, and other trim such as baseboards, clapboards, and chair rails. Mark and cut these pieces about 1/16" inch longer than space.
Tip 7: Use Reveals, Avoid Flush Edges
Carpenters have historically stepped casing back from the edge of door and window jambs.
Stepping trim back is what we call a reveal and it creates eye-pleasing shadow lines. It also creates different planes that make it harder for the eye to pick up discrepancies.
If a casing is installed flush to the inside of a jamb, the eye will easily pick up even a 1/16-in. variation from top to bottom. If the casing is stepped back 1/4 in. or 3/16 in., this variation will not be nearly as evident and will be hidden in shadow much of the time.
Tip 8: Split the difference
Splitting the difference between two measurements is common in carpentry. Sometimes we have to toss out the level so our work looks like it's mean to be there. Some examples of this are laying out roof shingles or better yet cedar clapboards.
Tip 9: Parallel is more important than level or square
Some rules of carpentry change from framing to finish work. Instead of keeping track of plumb, level and square, you now must keep finish materials parallel to the walls and floors. The eye sees diverging lines more readily than it sees plumb and level. The only exceptions are cabinets and doors, which must hang plumb to work properly.
One example of installing parallel is a kitchen island installed next to two outside walls - that are not square. Installing the island parallel to the longer wall, and the one that people see every time they walk down a hall, and into the room is a better solution than trying to square to the two walls.
Tip 10: Shaving Trim
Sometimes you need to shave-off a sliver of trim for a board to fit. To shave trim, push the casing up to the lowered, stopped miter saw blade. Raise the blade without moving the casing, and then make the cut.
Click this Link: http://www.mke.tl/GRID-YT
--------------------------------------------------------------------
#GRID
I’ve partnered with Milwaukee Tool’s GRID apprentice program to share with you 10 trim carpentry tips that I’ve picked up over the years. Alright let's jump into the tips:
Tip 1: Tune You Miter Saw
For accurate cuts, it’s important to calibrate your miter saw. A 1° difference over a 1-in. span will result in a 1/32-in. the gap in the finished miter joint.
Safety Tip: Make sure to have the power source (battery or cord) removed when you make those adjustments
Use a quality combination square to confirm the blade’s miter and bevel alignment, adjusting if necessary. Check your saw manual for specific instructions on how to adjust the blade
Tip 2: Mark Studs On Floor
If you have the opportunity to be on the project before the wallboard is installed take the time to mark your studs and any pipe locations on the subfloor. Those marks can be transferred onto the wall later prior if the flooring goes in before the trim.
Tip 3: Long runs – Use A Scarf Joint
When a wall is longer than the trim boards you are installing, you’ll need to join two boards along the straight run with a splice miter.
A splice miter (also called a scarf joint) is superior to a butt joint), because it’s more visually appealing and creates more surface area for glue or adhesive to make a stronger joint.
Try to layout your Scarf joint on a stud for solid nailing. A splicing miter is typically cut at a 30° bevel. I like to make both 30° bevels without moving the setting on the saw. This is easily accomplished by cutting one trim board left-of-blade and the other right-of-blade.
Tip 4: Don’t measure - Mark Cuts With A Knife
It is more accurate to mark trim in place than to measure and then transfer numbers off your tape measure. It’s easy to misread a tape or to confuse numbers while walking to the saw.
To do this:
Place a piece of trim in position, then use the tip of the knife blade to make a knick mark on the edge of the board.
Tip 5: Use Back Bevels
Adding back bevels to trim butting against a wall corner can help with fitting. When butting trim into each other a 5-degree back cut can give you a tighter-looking fit since there is less material touching.
The beveled board is also easier to scribe or adjust with a block plane if you need to. Uneven walls or misaligned jambs make it hard to get tight-fitting miters. If your miter has a consistent gap at the front, there’s a good chance that putting a slight back bevel on the butting molding will fix the problem.
There are two fast and easy ways to cut a slight back bevel:
1st method is to cut trim vertically if it fits in your saw.
2nd method is better for larger baseboard stock. Shim the molding with a pencil and cut it flat on the saw table. You can adjust the position or thickness of the bevel by moving the pencil.
Tip 6: Cut longer and snap in place
Then fit horizontal elements, and other trim such as baseboards, clapboards, and chair rails. Mark and cut these pieces about 1/16" inch longer than space.
Tip 7: Use Reveals, Avoid Flush Edges
Carpenters have historically stepped casing back from the edge of door and window jambs.
Stepping trim back is what we call a reveal and it creates eye-pleasing shadow lines. It also creates different planes that make it harder for the eye to pick up discrepancies.
If a casing is installed flush to the inside of a jamb, the eye will easily pick up even a 1/16-in. variation from top to bottom. If the casing is stepped back 1/4 in. or 3/16 in., this variation will not be nearly as evident and will be hidden in shadow much of the time.
Tip 8: Split the difference
Splitting the difference between two measurements is common in carpentry. Sometimes we have to toss out the level so our work looks like it's mean to be there. Some examples of this are laying out roof shingles or better yet cedar clapboards.
Tip 9: Parallel is more important than level or square
Some rules of carpentry change from framing to finish work. Instead of keeping track of plumb, level and square, you now must keep finish materials parallel to the walls and floors. The eye sees diverging lines more readily than it sees plumb and level. The only exceptions are cabinets and doors, which must hang plumb to work properly.
One example of installing parallel is a kitchen island installed next to two outside walls - that are not square. Installing the island parallel to the longer wall, and the one that people see every time they walk down a hall, and into the room is a better solution than trying to square to the two walls.
Tip 10: Shaving Trim
Sometimes you need to shave-off a sliver of trim for a board to fit. To shave trim, push the casing up to the lowered, stopped miter saw blade. Raise the blade without moving the casing, and then make the cut.
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