How to Troubleshoot and Replace an Oxygen (O2) Sensor

4DIYers منتشر شده در تاریخ 1396/12/11

36.9 هزار بار بازدید - 7 سال پیش - How to replace the O2,

How to replace the O2, also referred to as an oxygen sensor on your car without using an acetylene torque set, along with how to diagnose it, both using a multimeter and graphic scan tool. Bosch has provided me the parts required for the replacement in order to produce this video. This particular car I am working is a 1997 BMW 540i. Typically a faulty o2 sensor can cause rough idling, poor performance, increased fuel economy, and will trigger a check engine light. They may have different affects on different engines and last about 160,000 km or 100,000 miles but this can vary between vehicles and driving styles. #bmw #exhaust #emissions Website: http://4diyers.com/ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com/ Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -ODB2 scan tool -multimeter -needles, paper clips, long stables, small nails -deep socket, O2 sensor socket, wrench -penetrating oil -propane torch -jack -axle stands -ramps Procedure: -scan the codes and there can be an o2 sensor fault code, this doesn’t always mean the o2 sensor is actually faulty -considering the o2 sensor measures the amount of unburned oxygen in your exhaust, then you could have a faulty sensor throwing off the mixture, an improper combustion burn, vacuum leak, exhaust leak, broken wire, corroded electrical connector, or the catalytic converter isn’t functioning properly -a scan tool can also have a live data stream to see how the sensor is performing -this should be done when the engine is at full operating temperature, meaning the engine is running in closed loop -typically an o2 sensor before or pre catalytic converter should see a wide range, anywhere from almost 0.1 volts to almost 0.9 volts -for a higher example, 0.35v to almost 1v, the mixture is running rich -for a lower example, 0v to 0.55v, the mixture is running lean -for a closer example, 0.3v to 0.55v, the sensor isn’t functioning correctly -snap the throttle quickly to the floor making the engine run on a rich mixture, then release back quickly, forcing the engine to a lean mixture, this should show on the data -we should see a high and low spike and this ensures the sensor is reading correctly -after or post catalytic converter, when using he scan tool, the operation will be different -the wave form on the graph will be tighter, so showing something between 0.3 to 0.6 volts instead or even narrower, with a medium of 0.45v -as you can see this vehicle is still showing a tighter range, but has spikes which can indicate unburned pollutants -first inspect the existing sensor for any damage -test the resistance on the sensor’s heater circuit, a generic value should be no higher than 30 ohms -if there is no reading or it’s outside of that range, the heated element is faulty -back probe the electrical connector while there is a load on the circuit to ensure the it is receiving battery voltage while the ignition is on or the engine is running -if there is not power present at the plug, this could mean a fault with the plug, wiring, or perhaps something going back to the computer -back probe the connector on the black and grey wires and ensure the engine is at operating temperature -at operating temperature the sensor sound be hovering around 0.45v -snap the pedal to wide open throttle, we see a high spike which demonstrates a rich mixture -when the pedal goes back to normal, we see a low spike indicating that the mixture has leaned out -if these values are lagged or isn’t showing the oxygen sensor is faulty -with my replacements in the past, right before I remove the sensor, I will warm the vehicle up -for removing the sensor, we can use a wrench, a regular deep socket, or oxygen sensor socket -if you find the sensor is binding when removing it, tighten it and add some penetrating oil -anti seize is on the threads in order to prevent the sensor from seizing in the bung -careful with the wire and rotate it along with the sensor so it doesn’t add strain and risk breaking -for this particular car, we are looking at 41 ft lbs or 55nm as a torque value -use a propane torch in order to determine if the sensor is producing voltage when heated -this method doesn’t tell if the sensor is reading correctly, but will determine it’s functioning -probing the wires, this time the black and grey -when cold, we should see a value on 0v -heating the element, depending on the temperature the sensor it should max out up to or around 1 volt -in this case we do not and when I was viewing live data for this particular sensor I was seeing inconsistent values, so most likely a wire is broken in the sensor © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

7 سال پیش در تاریخ 1396/12/11 منتشر شده است.

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