Blackstar 8a+ in Siurana (Full Ascent)

Ascent of "Blackstar" 8a+ in November 2023 at Siuranella Centre, Siurana. Climber: Johannes P. Description: The route is 25 meters long and is about 15 degrees overhanging. It starts out with some powerful moves on good holds, but hard for the shoulders. You reach a big ledge, where you can rest. I rested for 1.5 minutes using a heel hook on the ledge, since the footholds are poor. After the rest, the first and hardest crux awaits. There are some gaston moves to an ok hold, from where you can clip. Then you go far to the right to a bad crimp (there are two good side-pulls, which I don't use, as there are no feet that work for side-pulling). Continue to the right on crimps and deadpoint to a good pinch, where you have to be very precise. There is a deep mono next to the pinch that you can rest in before the second (easier crux). After the second crux, there is a 6b top to the chains. I rate this route 5/5 stars, because it is not polished and fits my style of climbing.

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