They broke the rules and are getting away with it

HowNOT2
HowNOT2
263.1 هزار بار بازدید - 12 ماه پیش - Galvanized bolts are being used
Galvanized bolts are being used in limestone climbing crags near the ocean in Portugal.  A place that 304 stainless have dangerously corroded within 5 years.  Usually, titanium is required to have a reliable bolt, but they explain in this video that it's not just the chlorine induced "stress crack corrosion" but also sulphide stress cracking coming from BACTERIA???   Galvanized bolts apparently are not susceptible to either problem!  They still have a much shorter life span compared to Titanium but it's fascinating to learn about the nerdy metallurgy details of what we trust our life to. For an in-depth dive into how limestone by the seashore eats 304 stainless check out David Reeve's awesome work at https://cragchemistry.com/

We tested the galvanized eye bolts that are used at their crag and also Steve Glotfelty's galvanized eye bolts in this episode.  We also got to test a few 316SS eye bolts.  Thanks to Colin Milas at https://www.colin-milas.com/ for providing the samples for these tests and for supporting the climbing community during the past 4 decades. If the single-piece 316L forged eye bolts struck your interest reach them out via email: [email protected]

We have updated our Metal and Glue In chapters of our bolting bible and you can find that at https://www.hownot2.com/boltingbible

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00:00 Galvanized climbing bolts???
05:24 Our test setup
06:54 316 Eye bolts - shear
09:19 Galvanized Eye bolts - shear
14:11 Tension Tests
12 ماه پیش در تاریخ 1402/05/04 منتشر شده است.
263,142 بـار بازدید شده
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