1999 Toyota Tacoma IAC valve cleaning or replacement
170.5 هزار بار بازدید -
12 سال پیش
-
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@duf
I remove the IAC valve from my Tacoma and clean it to address warm starting problems. UPDATE - The cleaning of the IAC did not fix my problem. I also replaced the IAC valve and the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor, that did not fix the problem. I wound up breaking down and taking it to a garage. The wound up replacing an upstream O2 sensor and the MAF sensor. That appears to have finally fixed the 4 month old problem. In total parts and (garage)labor I wound up dropping around $800, I'm not happy about it.
Additional info regarding scanning for codes courtesy of Zloben9000
POST THOSE tips on some of your vids, and buy a real scan tool man:
if you have a decent scan tool you can:
check the TPS for glitches in the graph (as you step on the pedal)
and MAF for glitches and dropouts (as you rev up)
Check IAC valve graph rpms cold and warmed up(saw tooth graph means bad IAC).
check the o2 sensors for switching under 0.2 over 0.8
check if the cats are ok looking at the rear o2 - should be steady.
and check the fuel trim LTFT and STFT at idle and at 3000 rpm
the most important data is of course the FUEL TRIM(fuel calibration) .. it summarizes the engine's offset from factory calibration.
Ideal fuel calibration is 0% LTFT (Long term fuel trim) at IDLE and 0% LTFT at 3000 rpm.
+/-15% deviation triggers check engine light
+/- 10 % LTFT is Drivable
+/-5% LTFT is considered like new condition.
Differences of LTFT at IDLE and at 3000 rpm should be under 10% for a clunker. under 5 % for a clean ride.
High LTFT at idle low LTFT at 3000rpm equals vac leak(or other).
Low LTFT at idle and high at 3000rpm equals dirty MAF (or other)
Scans without GRAPH are useless and should be avoided.
Check out all my sites!
http://duf.net
http://dufisthenics.com
EUC Army YouTube - @eucarmy
Social media
Instagram - @duf67
Twitter - @duf67
Cindy's site - http://fitfarmchick.com
Royalty free music courtesy of Kevin Macleod - http://incompetech.com
@duf
I remove the IAC valve from my Tacoma and clean it to address warm starting problems. UPDATE - The cleaning of the IAC did not fix my problem. I also replaced the IAC valve and the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor, that did not fix the problem. I wound up breaking down and taking it to a garage. The wound up replacing an upstream O2 sensor and the MAF sensor. That appears to have finally fixed the 4 month old problem. In total parts and (garage)labor I wound up dropping around $800, I'm not happy about it.
Additional info regarding scanning for codes courtesy of Zloben9000
POST THOSE tips on some of your vids, and buy a real scan tool man:
if you have a decent scan tool you can:
check the TPS for glitches in the graph (as you step on the pedal)
and MAF for glitches and dropouts (as you rev up)
Check IAC valve graph rpms cold and warmed up(saw tooth graph means bad IAC).
check the o2 sensors for switching under 0.2 over 0.8
check if the cats are ok looking at the rear o2 - should be steady.
and check the fuel trim LTFT and STFT at idle and at 3000 rpm
the most important data is of course the FUEL TRIM(fuel calibration) .. it summarizes the engine's offset from factory calibration.
Ideal fuel calibration is 0% LTFT (Long term fuel trim) at IDLE and 0% LTFT at 3000 rpm.
+/-15% deviation triggers check engine light
+/- 10 % LTFT is Drivable
+/-5% LTFT is considered like new condition.
Differences of LTFT at IDLE and at 3000 rpm should be under 10% for a clunker. under 5 % for a clean ride.
High LTFT at idle low LTFT at 3000rpm equals vac leak(or other).
Low LTFT at idle and high at 3000rpm equals dirty MAF (or other)
Scans without GRAPH are useless and should be avoided.
Check out all my sites!
http://duf.net
http://dufisthenics.com
EUC Army YouTube - @eucarmy
Social media
Instagram - @duf67
Twitter - @duf67
Cindy's site - http://fitfarmchick.com
Royalty free music courtesy of Kevin Macleod - http://incompetech.com
12 سال پیش
در تاریخ 1391/06/29 منتشر شده
است.
170,542
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