Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock - Part 23 - Making The Key, Polishing And Assembly
720.6 هزار بار بازدید -
8 سال پیش
-
Making The Key, Final Polishing
Making The Key, Final Polishing And Assembly, by Clickspring.
In this video I make a custom winding key for the clock, as well as give the mechanism its final polish and assembly.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: Patreon: clickspring
________________________________________________________
A very special thank you to Patrons Dan Keen, Samuel Irons, Sean Kuyper and Mark Kobey
________________________________________________________
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": http://amzn.to/2FObS1D
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): http://amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
Tix Solder: http://amzn.to/2G4lUiE
Tix Flux 1/2oz: http://amzn.to/2G85OEZ
Heavy Duty Arbor Press: http://amzn.to/2G4gog7
Hegner Scroll Saw: https://amzn.to/2IhteVW
Super Pike Saw Blades Size 4/0 pkg of 144: http://amzn.to/2IO6aPw
Blue Matador Abrasive Paper - https://amzn.to/2IAFiBT
Abbreviated Transcript:
00:47 Although its not uncommon to see rivets used in the construction, I've decided to make this key from brass sheet and rod stock, and then soft solder the components together.
00:58 To form the blind recess, I've divided the shaft into 2 parts. One part will have a slot formed to receive the flat grip, and a spigot turned on its other end.
01:08 The other part which I'm calling the endpiece, will have a square hole formed in one end, and a recess drilled in the other to accept the spigot. Once the 2 parts are assembled, it'll look like a single uniform piece. So starting with the endpiece, I cleaned up the stock and then formed the required holes.
01:53 Now that square hole can certainly be formed using some careful filing. But in this case I formed it using a small arbor press and a custom square broach, made specifically to match the size of the winding square on the arbor.
02:40 With the fit confirmed, I used some flux to
prepare the join, and then soft soldered the end piece in place. A skim cut is enough to clean up that surface, and a series of decorative grooves adds to the presentation. The key will benefit from having a chamfered edge inside that open end, to make it easier to locate it on the winding square, so I formed that next, before parting off to profile the other end.
05:33 And speaking of soldering, I'm aiming to use the bare minimum here, just enough to wick into the gap, to reduce the cleanup afterwards. On first inspection, it looks like a good join. There's a small run of the solder at the previous join I made with the end piece, but that'll be easy enough to scrape off in a moment.
05:55 The main thing is that there's a nice uniform
fillet of solder around the entire seam, leaving just a bit of cleanup work with files and abrasive paper. A light hand polish, and that's the winding key complete. Now before I move on to the final polish and assembly, there's a few loose ends to tie up.
07:27 I removed the pins by simply filing them flush with the surface, but the tapered holes require a bit more work. Each tapered hole was drilled out to permit a slightly more substantial pin, to be hammered in with a tight interference fit.
07:55 The pin was then lightly riveted, filed flush with the surface of the frame, and then blended into the surrounding metal with abrasive paper. Which brings me to the home stretch of this build, and in fact the entire series: The final polish.
08:16 Each brass component must be given the full finishing treatment, starting with a medium grade abrasive paper, and then working through the grits until all trace of the previous grit has been removed.
08:28 The paper can be used wet or dry, but I find I get a much crisper result, and use a lot less paper, if I use it wet. It also helps to keep the cross contamination between grits to a minimum. After each grit the tray can be emptied and cleaned to start fresh on the next grit.
08:47 And the polish is applied in a similar way using small sections of soft cotton cloth. So after 23 episodes, and the fabrication of more than 100 separate components, this is it. The clock is finally ready for assembly.
References:
John Wilding "Large Wheel Skeleton Clock" construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb:
http://www.clockmaking-brass.co.uk/cl...
WR (Bill) Smiths Rub N Brite Polish:
http://www.wrsmithclocks.com/polish.htm
Making The Key, Final Polishing And Assembly, by Clickspring.
In this video I make a custom winding key for the clock, as well as give the mechanism its final polish and assembly.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: Patreon: clickspring
________________________________________________________
A very special thank you to Patrons Dan Keen, Samuel Irons, Sean Kuyper and Mark Kobey
________________________________________________________
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": http://amzn.to/2FObS1D
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): http://amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
Tix Solder: http://amzn.to/2G4lUiE
Tix Flux 1/2oz: http://amzn.to/2G85OEZ
Heavy Duty Arbor Press: http://amzn.to/2G4gog7
Hegner Scroll Saw: https://amzn.to/2IhteVW
Super Pike Saw Blades Size 4/0 pkg of 144: http://amzn.to/2IO6aPw
Blue Matador Abrasive Paper - https://amzn.to/2IAFiBT
Abbreviated Transcript:
00:47 Although its not uncommon to see rivets used in the construction, I've decided to make this key from brass sheet and rod stock, and then soft solder the components together.
00:58 To form the blind recess, I've divided the shaft into 2 parts. One part will have a slot formed to receive the flat grip, and a spigot turned on its other end.
01:08 The other part which I'm calling the endpiece, will have a square hole formed in one end, and a recess drilled in the other to accept the spigot. Once the 2 parts are assembled, it'll look like a single uniform piece. So starting with the endpiece, I cleaned up the stock and then formed the required holes.
01:53 Now that square hole can certainly be formed using some careful filing. But in this case I formed it using a small arbor press and a custom square broach, made specifically to match the size of the winding square on the arbor.
02:40 With the fit confirmed, I used some flux to
prepare the join, and then soft soldered the end piece in place. A skim cut is enough to clean up that surface, and a series of decorative grooves adds to the presentation. The key will benefit from having a chamfered edge inside that open end, to make it easier to locate it on the winding square, so I formed that next, before parting off to profile the other end.
05:33 And speaking of soldering, I'm aiming to use the bare minimum here, just enough to wick into the gap, to reduce the cleanup afterwards. On first inspection, it looks like a good join. There's a small run of the solder at the previous join I made with the end piece, but that'll be easy enough to scrape off in a moment.
05:55 The main thing is that there's a nice uniform
fillet of solder around the entire seam, leaving just a bit of cleanup work with files and abrasive paper. A light hand polish, and that's the winding key complete. Now before I move on to the final polish and assembly, there's a few loose ends to tie up.
07:27 I removed the pins by simply filing them flush with the surface, but the tapered holes require a bit more work. Each tapered hole was drilled out to permit a slightly more substantial pin, to be hammered in with a tight interference fit.
07:55 The pin was then lightly riveted, filed flush with the surface of the frame, and then blended into the surrounding metal with abrasive paper. Which brings me to the home stretch of this build, and in fact the entire series: The final polish.
08:16 Each brass component must be given the full finishing treatment, starting with a medium grade abrasive paper, and then working through the grits until all trace of the previous grit has been removed.
08:28 The paper can be used wet or dry, but I find I get a much crisper result, and use a lot less paper, if I use it wet. It also helps to keep the cross contamination between grits to a minimum. After each grit the tray can be emptied and cleaned to start fresh on the next grit.
08:47 And the polish is applied in a similar way using small sections of soft cotton cloth. So after 23 episodes, and the fabrication of more than 100 separate components, this is it. The clock is finally ready for assembly.
References:
John Wilding "Large Wheel Skeleton Clock" construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb:
http://www.clockmaking-brass.co.uk/cl...
WR (Bill) Smiths Rub N Brite Polish:
http://www.wrsmithclocks.com/polish.htm
Making The Key, Final Polishing And Assembly, by Clickspring.
8 سال پیش
در تاریخ 1395/09/14 منتشر شده
است.
720,676
بـار بازدید شده