Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 2 - Machining The Clock Pillars
444.9 هزار بار بازدید -
9 سال پیش
-
How To Make A Clock
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 2, by Clickspring.
In this second episode of the John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock build, I machine the 3 pillars that separate the clock frames.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give me a thumbs up, and a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: Patreon: clickspring
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): http://amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": http://amzn.to/2FObS1D
"Machinery's handbook": http://amzn.to/2pi7XE5
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: https://amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Anytime Tools 5 Lathe Mill CENTER DRILL : https://amzn.to/2IThppO
Digital Calipers: https://amzn.to/2IkFh4O
Other Videos to Watch:
How To Make A Clock Part 1 - Making The Clock Frames
Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock In ...
How To Machine A Small Lathe Carrier
Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Machi...
Ask Me A Question:
http://www.clickspringprojects.com/co...
Abbreviated Transcript:
00:17 The job the pillars is to hold the frames a fixed distance apart, and also to give them some rigidity. So they're a structural thing, but they're meant to look good too. This is the profile I'm aiming for. Aside from the dimensions, I guess the main thing I want to see, is that the curves and tapers all look the same on each of the 3 pillars.
00:36 There's a few ways to make this part. For me it works best, to make the spigots first, and then finish the part between centers, that way all of the surfaces are concentric, and I can take the part out to check on it as many times as I want without introducing any errors. So I turned the first spigot to final size, and it's important that the pillars seat firmly into the plates, so the spigots are given a good undercut.
01:10 Then I drilled and tapped it for the screws. I made the center drill hole quite large, to give a good bearing surface for the 60 degree center later on. Then I marked out the dimensions for the other end, re-chucked the other way around, and then repeated the process for the other spigot.
02:09 Again I gave it a good undercut, and a generous center hole for the center to seat in later. Now I don't have a drive plate for theis lathe, so I'm going to turn a center in place from this hex bar, and then attach a driver to it instead.
02:58 I used a carrier to grip the part by the spigot, and I made this particular carrier specifically for this job. Click on the link if you want to see the video about that. So now with the part between centers, I can get on with the ornamental turning. First the center section was thinned down.
03:33 Then I marked out the end points for the tapers, and the location of the central groove. I cut the tapers using an offset on the compound of about 4 degrees.
04:31 I made a form tool for the end curves too; I didn't really like my chances of getting the curves to match by hand, so I figured a form tool would make the job easier, and honestly I don't think I would have even got close to matching the curves without it. I followed this with a bit of filing and polishing to remove the tool marks.
05:27 Then I put a very light taper on each of the spigots. This is to stop them jamming in the plates. Each spigot was given a test fit in the frames, to make sure that all was well, and then a coat of clear lacquer.
00:05:43 I'll re-do the polishing and lacquering at the end of the build. But this coat should protect the pillars from all the handling they get in the meantime. Now all three pillars must have the same shoulder length.
06:02 So I identified the shortest of the three, pushed it hard up against the chuck jaws, put in tailstock support, and then locked off the carriage.
06:20 All of this is quite important, because now I can take a fine cut across the shoulder face and know that the tool is effectively zeroed at what will be the shoulder length for all three pillars. Each of the remaining pillars is then chucked and faced in exactly the same way.
06:41 Giving three completed pillars, with exactly the same shoulder length In the next video, I'll make the washers and screws, and also assemble the frame.
References:
How to make a John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock:
http://www.ritetimepublishing.com/
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 2, by Clickspring.
In this second episode of the John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock build, I machine the 3 pillars that separate the clock frames.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give me a thumbs up, and a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: Patreon: clickspring
You can also help me make these videos by purchasing via the following Amazon Affiliate links:
Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): http://amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": http://amzn.to/2FObS1D
"Machinery's handbook": http://amzn.to/2pi7XE5
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: https://amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Anytime Tools 5 Lathe Mill CENTER DRILL : https://amzn.to/2IThppO
Digital Calipers: https://amzn.to/2IkFh4O
Other Videos to Watch:
How To Make A Clock Part 1 - Making The Clock Frames
Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock In ...
How To Machine A Small Lathe Carrier
Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Machi...
Ask Me A Question:
http://www.clickspringprojects.com/co...
Abbreviated Transcript:
00:17 The job the pillars is to hold the frames a fixed distance apart, and also to give them some rigidity. So they're a structural thing, but they're meant to look good too. This is the profile I'm aiming for. Aside from the dimensions, I guess the main thing I want to see, is that the curves and tapers all look the same on each of the 3 pillars.
00:36 There's a few ways to make this part. For me it works best, to make the spigots first, and then finish the part between centers, that way all of the surfaces are concentric, and I can take the part out to check on it as many times as I want without introducing any errors. So I turned the first spigot to final size, and it's important that the pillars seat firmly into the plates, so the spigots are given a good undercut.
01:10 Then I drilled and tapped it for the screws. I made the center drill hole quite large, to give a good bearing surface for the 60 degree center later on. Then I marked out the dimensions for the other end, re-chucked the other way around, and then repeated the process for the other spigot.
02:09 Again I gave it a good undercut, and a generous center hole for the center to seat in later. Now I don't have a drive plate for theis lathe, so I'm going to turn a center in place from this hex bar, and then attach a driver to it instead.
02:58 I used a carrier to grip the part by the spigot, and I made this particular carrier specifically for this job. Click on the link if you want to see the video about that. So now with the part between centers, I can get on with the ornamental turning. First the center section was thinned down.
03:33 Then I marked out the end points for the tapers, and the location of the central groove. I cut the tapers using an offset on the compound of about 4 degrees.
04:31 I made a form tool for the end curves too; I didn't really like my chances of getting the curves to match by hand, so I figured a form tool would make the job easier, and honestly I don't think I would have even got close to matching the curves without it. I followed this with a bit of filing and polishing to remove the tool marks.
05:27 Then I put a very light taper on each of the spigots. This is to stop them jamming in the plates. Each spigot was given a test fit in the frames, to make sure that all was well, and then a coat of clear lacquer.
00:05:43 I'll re-do the polishing and lacquering at the end of the build. But this coat should protect the pillars from all the handling they get in the meantime. Now all three pillars must have the same shoulder length.
06:02 So I identified the shortest of the three, pushed it hard up against the chuck jaws, put in tailstock support, and then locked off the carriage.
06:20 All of this is quite important, because now I can take a fine cut across the shoulder face and know that the tool is effectively zeroed at what will be the shoulder length for all three pillars. Each of the remaining pillars is then chucked and faced in exactly the same way.
06:41 Giving three completed pillars, with exactly the same shoulder length In the next video, I'll make the washers and screws, and also assemble the frame.
References:
How to make a John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock:
http://www.ritetimepublishing.com/
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 2, by Clickspring.
9 سال پیش
در تاریخ 1393/12/01 منتشر شده
است.
444,917
بـار بازدید شده