Overhead camera rig // How-To | I Like To Make Stuff
418.4 هزار بار بازدید -
9 سال پیش
-
I needed a rig for
I needed a rig for overhead video production on my new electronics station, so I grabbed some LEDS and knocked it out in an afternoon!
MORE DETAILS:
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/how-t...
ALSO CHECK OUT THERE OTHER RIGS:
Darbin Orvar - DIY How To Overhead Camera Rig
Casey Neistat - Casey Neistat's Wildly Functional Studio
Special thanks to Jesse Hughson for his awesome support on Patreon! He made this video possible!
HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
http://amzn.to/1QbG0TW - Boom microphone stand
http://amzn.to/1Uq7R8D - Gorilla pod (better deal)
http://amzn.to/1L869i3 - Joby tripod head only
http://amzn.to/1KTZHAq - MIG welder
http://amzn.to/1UreqEG - Welding mask (auto darkening)
http://amzn.to/1Dxukcc - Welding gloves
http://amzn.to/1UreDYv - Welding magnet
http://amzn.to/1gjdrqU - Angle grinder
http://amzn.to/1T0GBNj - Cut off wheels
http://amzn.to/1Uq7KKp - LED strip set
http://amzn.to/1P9bHN6 - Soldering iron
http://amzn.to/1hm39qY - Wire strippers (not the ones I have, but good ones)
http://amzn.to/1eVTjKG - Thin solder
http://amzn.to/1IoZ2TG - Solder tip cleaner
http://amzn.to/1DtOnsn - Fiskars cutting mat
I used 3/4" angle iron, 1/2" square tubing, flat steel and solid rod.
I measured four pieces of the square tubing to 18" each.
These were cut off with a cut off wheel on the grinder.
I cleaned up the cut edges with a flat file.
The 36" angle iron are the verticals, the square tubing is for the horizontal support.
I used magnets to hold the pieces at 90˚ angles.
All four corners were welded together.
I made a second, identical frame then smoothed all of the welds with a flap disc.
I used a square file to smooth the inside corners.
Using the magnets for support and squaring, I added another square tube (36") in between the two frames. This will become the top, back side.
I welded it in place. You could optionally add another support on the front side as well, but I didn't find the need.
I measured up 6" from the back bar, and centered the steel rod on the marks.
I welded the rod in place, making sure to get good penetration all of the way around it.
I flipped the frame over, and added a piece of angle iron across the bottom, back side.
All of the welds were smoothed with the flap disc.
I sprayed the whole frame with flat black spray paint.
For the over head mount, I used a $17 boom mic stand.
I removed the bottom section as well as one of the cross bars.
I added a rubber pad inside the section that fit around the rod, to help it hold tight.
Then I mounted this on the steel rod in the frame.
I used Joby tripod heads on all of my tripods. They have a smooth ball joint and are easy to move the camera between tripods.
The thread on the mic stand is the same as the thread for the tripod head (how cool is that??).
The camera slid right into place and locked into the tripod head.
I got a 5000k˚ (color temperature) strip of LEDs, with a remote.
These just plug together and work out of the box.
The strip has an adhesive back, so it's very easy to attach to the angle iron sides.
There are marks ever few inches where you can cut the strip. There are re-solder terminals at these points.
Once my strips were in place, I connected them by soldering on short wires to the provided terminals.
Let there be remote controlled light!
The color temp matches my other lights, but there are different options if you have a different preference.
The light is pretty even from all directions.
The steel frame keeps the footprint of the rig to a minimum, but helps it stay very sturdy and rigid.
The boom arm gives you a huge amount of control over camera placement.
The overhead shots turned out better than I expected!!
The steel frame keeps the footprint of the rig to a minimum, but helps it stay very sturdy and rigid.
Subscribe: http://bit.ly/ILikeToMakestuffSubscribe
Check out my TopVideos!: http://bit.ly/ILikeToMakeStuffTopVideos
Learn 3d modeling, get digital plans, and cool merch at
https://iliketomakestuff.com
Want to support ILTMS? Get exclusive content and more...
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/patreon
FOLLOW:
Instagram: iliketomakestuff
Twitter: iliketomakestuff
Facebook: iltms
#ILikeToMakeStuff
About I Like To Make Stuff:
We have lots of projects including woodworking, metalworking, electronics, 3D printing, prop making and more!
These videos are our attempt inspire and empower others to make the stuff that they want to have. Hopefully you'll see something here that will inspire you to make something that you're passionate about!
Overhead camera rig // How-To | I Like To Make Stuff
Overhead camera rig // How-To | I Lik...
I Like To Make Stuff
iliketomakestuff
MORE DETAILS:
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/how-t...
ALSO CHECK OUT THERE OTHER RIGS:
Darbin Orvar - DIY How To Overhead Camera Rig
Casey Neistat - Casey Neistat's Wildly Functional Studio
Special thanks to Jesse Hughson for his awesome support on Patreon! He made this video possible!
HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
http://amzn.to/1QbG0TW - Boom microphone stand
http://amzn.to/1Uq7R8D - Gorilla pod (better deal)
http://amzn.to/1L869i3 - Joby tripod head only
http://amzn.to/1KTZHAq - MIG welder
http://amzn.to/1UreqEG - Welding mask (auto darkening)
http://amzn.to/1Dxukcc - Welding gloves
http://amzn.to/1UreDYv - Welding magnet
http://amzn.to/1gjdrqU - Angle grinder
http://amzn.to/1T0GBNj - Cut off wheels
http://amzn.to/1Uq7KKp - LED strip set
http://amzn.to/1P9bHN6 - Soldering iron
http://amzn.to/1hm39qY - Wire strippers (not the ones I have, but good ones)
http://amzn.to/1eVTjKG - Thin solder
http://amzn.to/1IoZ2TG - Solder tip cleaner
http://amzn.to/1DtOnsn - Fiskars cutting mat
I used 3/4" angle iron, 1/2" square tubing, flat steel and solid rod.
I measured four pieces of the square tubing to 18" each.
These were cut off with a cut off wheel on the grinder.
I cleaned up the cut edges with a flat file.
The 36" angle iron are the verticals, the square tubing is for the horizontal support.
I used magnets to hold the pieces at 90˚ angles.
All four corners were welded together.
I made a second, identical frame then smoothed all of the welds with a flap disc.
I used a square file to smooth the inside corners.
Using the magnets for support and squaring, I added another square tube (36") in between the two frames. This will become the top, back side.
I welded it in place. You could optionally add another support on the front side as well, but I didn't find the need.
I measured up 6" from the back bar, and centered the steel rod on the marks.
I welded the rod in place, making sure to get good penetration all of the way around it.
I flipped the frame over, and added a piece of angle iron across the bottom, back side.
All of the welds were smoothed with the flap disc.
I sprayed the whole frame with flat black spray paint.
For the over head mount, I used a $17 boom mic stand.
I removed the bottom section as well as one of the cross bars.
I added a rubber pad inside the section that fit around the rod, to help it hold tight.
Then I mounted this on the steel rod in the frame.
I used Joby tripod heads on all of my tripods. They have a smooth ball joint and are easy to move the camera between tripods.
The thread on the mic stand is the same as the thread for the tripod head (how cool is that??).
The camera slid right into place and locked into the tripod head.
I got a 5000k˚ (color temperature) strip of LEDs, with a remote.
These just plug together and work out of the box.
The strip has an adhesive back, so it's very easy to attach to the angle iron sides.
There are marks ever few inches where you can cut the strip. There are re-solder terminals at these points.
Once my strips were in place, I connected them by soldering on short wires to the provided terminals.
Let there be remote controlled light!
The color temp matches my other lights, but there are different options if you have a different preference.
The light is pretty even from all directions.
The steel frame keeps the footprint of the rig to a minimum, but helps it stay very sturdy and rigid.
The boom arm gives you a huge amount of control over camera placement.
The overhead shots turned out better than I expected!!
The steel frame keeps the footprint of the rig to a minimum, but helps it stay very sturdy and rigid.
Subscribe: http://bit.ly/ILikeToMakestuffSubscribe
Check out my TopVideos!: http://bit.ly/ILikeToMakeStuffTopVideos
Learn 3d modeling, get digital plans, and cool merch at
https://iliketomakestuff.com
Want to support ILTMS? Get exclusive content and more...
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/patreon
FOLLOW:
Instagram: iliketomakestuff
Twitter: iliketomakestuff
Facebook: iltms
#ILikeToMakeStuff
About I Like To Make Stuff:
We have lots of projects including woodworking, metalworking, electronics, 3D printing, prop making and more!
These videos are our attempt inspire and empower others to make the stuff that they want to have. Hopefully you'll see something here that will inspire you to make something that you're passionate about!
Overhead camera rig // How-To | I Like To Make Stuff
Overhead camera rig // How-To | I Lik...
I Like To Make Stuff
iliketomakestuff
9 سال پیش
در تاریخ 1394/06/24 منتشر شده
است.
418,484
بـار بازدید شده