How To Build A Soundproof Door - Part 2
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8 ماه پیش
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Last week I wrote about how to build a soundproof door part 1, however, after lots of thinking and designing I have scrapped a lot of what I taught in part 1 of this series. This is an iterative process for me as I am designing the perfect doors for my clients.
In part two of this series I will go over my new findings and my new design. The entire goal is to create an affordable yet solid soundproof door for all home studio enthusiasts. I have borrowed ideas from Rod Gervais, J.H. Brandt and my own building and design experience to create what I think will be a very effective and affordable soundproof door plan.
1) The Air Gap and WIC Isolation
First, I found that the WIC isolation clips made by Mason Industries are 1 1/2" wide. Meaning your air gap between your walls must also be 1 1/2" not the usual 1" I recommend. The reason I am recommending using the WIC isolation clips is that they can each hold up to 250 lb and are much higher quality than the usual I-B3 sway bracing clips I recommend. The I-B3 clips hold 38 lb per clip. This said you could still use the I-B3 sway clips for our doors since the doors each weigh 123.5lb.
2) Where To Place Your Rubber Seals
The big discrepancy between JH Brandt's door design and Rod Gervais's is in leaving a gap between the double wall or connecting the two with wood. I like JH Brandt's design better because it keeps the integrity of our double wall system, whereas Gervais chooses to bridge the gap at the door with 5/4" wood stock because he feels the doors need the support. I agree with JH Brandt that we can support the doors using the WIC clips and not sacrifice our double wall system. However, if we do leave the air gap, Brandt points out that there will be odors that emanate from the double wall cavity.
To block the odors we add a rubber seal around all four sides of the door opening. The rubber should extend from the edge of the outer wall to the edge of the inner wall. According to Brandt, you should also place rubber on the floor of the opening and ensure it is sealed against the two sides. I question whether this is necessary and may removed it in future plans, but for now it is part of the design.
The rubber should be attached with screws, but you also should run three beads of acoustic sealant down the middle and sides of the rubber before adhering it to the studs and floor. You can see the rubber in the diagram below attached to our stud wall and concrete floor.
*As a side note, in part 1 of this series I had the rubber on the outside of our king studs. I have changed that design because I no longer want to use pre-made door frames. I will explain why later on.
3) Building Your Door
The actual door, meaning the swinging wood is going to be made from a solid core door that is 1 3/4" wide. This door should weigh around 66 lb (30 Kg). Now a 66 lb door alone is not enough mass to match our double drywall.
The two layers of 5/8" drywall equals 4.4 lb per square foot (10.7 kg/ sqm). We need our 36" x 80" door to weight at least 4.4 lb x 20 square feet = 88 lb (40 kg).
To do this I like to add 16 gauge plate steel to and 1/8" plywood to the back of each door. This is the side of the door facing the inner wall.
16 gauge steel weighs 2.66 lb/ sq/ft. And 1/8" plywood weighs 0.4lb / sq/ft. The steel and plywood will go on the back of each door leaving a 3/4" gap around the door. The gap is to create a bank vault seal as you can see in the diagram below.
Because of this 3/4" gap the weight of our added plywood and metal is about 57.5 lb (26 kg). That brings the total weight of the door to about 123.5 lb (56 kg). This is well over the 88 lb we needed to match our walls. Going over is a good thing, because our doors are a natural week point and we want to beef them up as much as possible within reason.
So how do we attach the door to the door frame. The answer is with our continuous hinge. I recommend using the ABH A110HD Heavy Duty Full Mortise Concealed Continuous Geared Hinge. This hinge will help with hanging the door plumb with the frame and will hold the added weight of a heavy door.
Continue reading at - https://www.soundproofyourstudio.com/...
0:00 - Intro
1:38 - Sway Bracing
3:46 - Rubber Seals
4:56 - How To Build The Door
11:57 - Building The Door Frame
15:59 - Zero International Seals
18:22 - Adding Rigid Fiberglass
22:33 - How Much Does It All Cost?
Last week I wrote about how to build a soundproof door part 1, however, after lots of thinking and designing I have scrapped a lot of what I taught in part 1 of this series. This is an iterative process for me as I am designing the perfect doors for my clients.
In part two of this series I will go over my new findings and my new design. The entire goal is to create an affordable yet solid soundproof door for all home studio enthusiasts. I have borrowed ideas from Rod Gervais, J.H. Brandt and my own building and design experience to create what I think will be a very effective and affordable soundproof door plan.
1) The Air Gap and WIC Isolation
First, I found that the WIC isolation clips made by Mason Industries are 1 1/2" wide. Meaning your air gap between your walls must also be 1 1/2" not the usual 1" I recommend. The reason I am recommending using the WIC isolation clips is that they can each hold up to 250 lb and are much higher quality than the usual I-B3 sway bracing clips I recommend. The I-B3 clips hold 38 lb per clip. This said you could still use the I-B3 sway clips for our doors since the doors each weigh 123.5lb.
2) Where To Place Your Rubber Seals
The big discrepancy between JH Brandt's door design and Rod Gervais's is in leaving a gap between the double wall or connecting the two with wood. I like JH Brandt's design better because it keeps the integrity of our double wall system, whereas Gervais chooses to bridge the gap at the door with 5/4" wood stock because he feels the doors need the support. I agree with JH Brandt that we can support the doors using the WIC clips and not sacrifice our double wall system. However, if we do leave the air gap, Brandt points out that there will be odors that emanate from the double wall cavity.
To block the odors we add a rubber seal around all four sides of the door opening. The rubber should extend from the edge of the outer wall to the edge of the inner wall. According to Brandt, you should also place rubber on the floor of the opening and ensure it is sealed against the two sides. I question whether this is necessary and may removed it in future plans, but for now it is part of the design.
The rubber should be attached with screws, but you also should run three beads of acoustic sealant down the middle and sides of the rubber before adhering it to the studs and floor. You can see the rubber in the diagram below attached to our stud wall and concrete floor.
*As a side note, in part 1 of this series I had the rubber on the outside of our king studs. I have changed that design because I no longer want to use pre-made door frames. I will explain why later on.
3) Building Your Door
The actual door, meaning the swinging wood is going to be made from a solid core door that is 1 3/4" wide. This door should weigh around 66 lb (30 Kg). Now a 66 lb door alone is not enough mass to match our double drywall.
The two layers of 5/8" drywall equals 4.4 lb per square foot (10.7 kg/ sqm). We need our 36" x 80" door to weight at least 4.4 lb x 20 square feet = 88 lb (40 kg).
To do this I like to add 16 gauge plate steel to and 1/8" plywood to the back of each door. This is the side of the door facing the inner wall.
16 gauge steel weighs 2.66 lb/ sq/ft. And 1/8" plywood weighs 0.4lb / sq/ft. The steel and plywood will go on the back of each door leaving a 3/4" gap around the door. The gap is to create a bank vault seal as you can see in the diagram below.
Because of this 3/4" gap the weight of our added plywood and metal is about 57.5 lb (26 kg). That brings the total weight of the door to about 123.5 lb (56 kg). This is well over the 88 lb we needed to match our walls. Going over is a good thing, because our doors are a natural week point and we want to beef them up as much as possible within reason.
So how do we attach the door to the door frame. The answer is with our continuous hinge. I recommend using the ABH A110HD Heavy Duty Full Mortise Concealed Continuous Geared Hinge. This hinge will help with hanging the door plumb with the frame and will hold the added weight of a heavy door.
Continue reading at - https://www.soundproofyourstudio.com/...
0:00 - Intro
1:38 - Sway Bracing
3:46 - Rubber Seals
4:56 - How To Build The Door
11:57 - Building The Door Frame
15:59 - Zero International Seals
18:22 - Adding Rigid Fiberglass
22:33 - How Much Does It All Cost?
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در تاریخ 1402/09/06 منتشر شده
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